But WordPress doesn't seem to want to let me display all tags, in an alphabetical list, outside the sidebar, without going under the hood (does it seriously not let me create new templates without uploading the damn things through FTP?).
(Closest I've found so far is this.)
I've already wasted way too much time on this tonight without meaning to—it's not urgent until we have lots of auction items and tags (as I hope we will). But damn, it sometimes feels like WordPress and I are just not friends.