cross-stitching 101
Nov. 6th, 2014 05:47 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
Revised from a comment I posted a while ago (in the last thread on the first page of comments here), prompted by tomorrow's Jonathan Strange & Mr Norrell post (no, really! Cross-stitching, slash, and a man wearing a ship on his head, all coming to a Tor.com near you.). Someone asked if I'd taught myself to cross-stitch, and I said I had when I was a kid: "Pretty much your threshold for 'looks good!' is 'all stitches go in the same direction' and 'no big lumpy knots on the back,' so it's pretty simple. => There are bunches of tips for making it look _great_ to close inspection, but start with the basics and see if you like it."
Here are the basics that I came up with on the fly, slightly cleaned up.
You can either find a pattern you like and get the cloth and thread you need for it, or you can buy it all together in a kit. (These days kits are harder to find in general craft stores.) There are also two kinds of kits, the kind with blank fabric and a chart ("counted cross stitch") and the kind with the picture printed on the fabric that you stitch over ("stamped cross stitch").
If you're assembling stuff to make a pattern you've found, I'd recommend starting with Aida fabric, because it's simpler. You want a tapestry needle, because it's blunt; if you're using the most common Aida size, which is 14, try size 24 or 26. And you want embroidery floss, the kind that comes with six plies or strands (for stitching on 14 Aida, you'll want two of those strands); DMC is the biggest name here, and Anchor is also a big name in the UK.
You'll probably also find it easiest, to start, to have a hoop or frame to hold the fabric. A kit may come with a hoop, and hoops are generally the easiest to find in general craft stores. (There are lots more options, but: basics.)
The actual stitching is super simple. Aida fabric is all nice neat little squares with holes at each corner. Push your needle up through a hole from the back, then bring it down through the hole that's diagonal from the one you started with, making the bottom part of the X. If you think of your square's corners numbered like below, you could, for instance, come up at 3 and come down at 2:
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If you're doing a row of stitches, it's easier and faster to do all the bottom parts first. So bring your needle up at 4--it's part of the same block--and then make another diagonal stitch, until you're done that row in your pattern:
/ / / / /
ETA: when you're starting off, leave an inch or two of thread on the back side of your fabric, when you pull it through from 3. Then, when you go down at 2 and up and 4, you'll make a straight line down on the back: before you pull it taut, tuck the inch or two of thread through it, so it's trapped underneath when you pull the stitch taut. You can then do the same thing for the rest of the row, and you've safely secured the start of your thread without a lumpy knot. When you get to the end of your thread, use your needle to run it through a row of stitches on the back for the same effect. Here are some pictures I found on a super-quick search.
At the end of the row, come up again at 4 but this time cross the stitch by making a diagonal in the opposite direction (go down at 1), then repeat:
\ \ \ \ \
Et voila! You now have, err, five neat little X's of thread. (You can stitch in whatever direction you want, as long as it's always the same; I just used that example because it's how I do it and made it less likely I'd mis-state something accidentally.)
Here are some things that affect a project's complexity and difficulty, which you may want to consider when picking something to try--you know your own tolerance for diving in the deep end!
- size
- number of colors
- whether those colors are mostly in their own areas (easier) or whether they are all mixed up (harder)
- besides cross-stitch and backstitch (used to outline: it's the brown in the polar bears), does it look like it uses any other stitches? beads?
- ETA: metallic threads (high difficulty level)
There are lots of tutorials and things online, but they seemed to have pretty wildly varying levels of information, so I figured I'd make my own attempt at what I thought the real basics were.
Questions? Disagreements? Demand for a 201+ discussion? (I was planning to save that until my next finish, or at least until I need advice on it, honestly, but we can set up a dedicated comment thread here if you all want.)
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Date: 2014-11-06 11:12 pm (UTC)When you're talking about own areas vs mixed up, I would emphasise that patterns with just a cross or two on their own here and there are really very awkward, much more than you might expect if you've never tried cross-stitch before.
Maybe add something about how to start and stop stitching? I think that's the only thing that strikes me as missing from this, it's a really nice intro otherwise :-)
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Date: 2014-11-06 11:39 pm (UTC)Let me ponder how to best do start-stop.
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Date: 2014-11-07 01:33 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-07 01:36 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-07 01:38 am (UTC)I think the trick of using a needle threader to slide the free end under the stitching should be better known. It's so easy to take that one last stitch and find out you haven't left enough thread to slide the threaded needle through the back. (You can also buy tools to do this, but a needle threader works fine.)
http://www.stardetailors.com/ is one gadget vendor.
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Date: 2014-11-07 01:43 am (UTC)Thanks for the link. Ugh, there's an actual needlework shop about half an hour away from Chad's parents, one of these days when we're visiting I'll go down . . .
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Date: 2014-11-07 01:50 am (UTC)Thread Heaven. All hail Thread Heaven. http://www.threadheaven.com/
Q-Snaps hoops. Circular hoops stretch fabric on the bias; Q-snaps preserve the grain of the fabric. They're also comfortable to hold. http://www.qsnap.com/
Sharp scissors. I love my Gingher embroidery scissors, but if I didn't already have a pair, I'd go for Havel's, which have excellent quality. http://www.havelssewing.com/
Some way to organize the thread; everybody's got their favorite. I tend to just grab a piece of cardboard, write thread numbers, and make slits in the cardboard to hold each bunch of thread of the same color.
I like this sort of needle threader: http://www.123stitch.com/item/Dritz-Tapestry-Needle-Threaders/123-10500 Much, much less fiddly than the wire ones, and less likely to cause twisting.
I keep my current project and its associated tools in a quart or gallon-sized Zip-Loc.
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Date: 2014-11-07 01:59 am (UTC)I like Q-Snaps, though I am currently experimenting with stitching in the hand.
For floss, I use snack-sized ziploc bags with a hole-punched index card inside: hole-punch the bag to match, and then you can string the bags on one or two rings or put them in a little binder, and when not being used for a project, the card means they stand up easily(-ish) in a file box.
I should've ironed my current project before I started stitching, but I made some tubes out of cardstock to wrap it around and then tuck inside, so I wouldn't have to fold it, which amuses me inordinately. That goes in a big ziploc bag. Little scissors, needles, Thread Heaven, etc., go in a change purse. Pattern, highlighters, pencil are the rest, and it all gets tossed in a super-cheap canvas tote bag (one of these, undecorated) so I have handles.
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Date: 2014-11-07 02:07 am (UTC)no subject
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Date: 2014-12-04 05:26 am (UTC)I've discovered that I can address a 4" square with an awake child (who now finds it diverting to help me separate cotton strands when asked and understands about not tangling them unnecessarily), so I'm trying slowly to figure out how I could do my languishing Wentzler kit without my old wooden tabletop frame (no longer usable for me). I'm willing to buy stuff--a design that's 22.5 x 14.5" is worth some care--but have little sense of where to look for recs/suggestions at this point.
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Date: 2014-12-04 05:39 am (UTC)Googling turns up this: http://www.crossstitchforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=21809 in which people recommend that, or putting a bit of protecting fabric between, or just not bothering with anything at all. I think I'd not be comfortable with "nothing at all," because I often struggled a bit to get the clamp pieces off.
[*] Fabric front-up on bottom, full frame on top, clamp pieces attaching from the bottom of everything. It doesn't let the excess fabric flow over the sides quite as neatly, probably, but likely it's still workable.
I'm still working on the small project in the hand, so I haven't tried it. Offer to loan you my Q-Snaps still stands--I'm totally in love with stitching in the hand and the next thing is going to be trying to finish the big WiP that way.
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Date: 2014-12-04 05:52 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-12-04 05:55 am (UTC)The evenweave part or the 25ct part? At least it's bigger than 28ct, which is what I default to these days?
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Date: 2014-12-04 06:06 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-07 01:54 am (UTC)God. I have strong opinions, don't I?
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Date: 2014-11-07 01:59 am (UTC)I want an in-person shop so I can browse and find things I didn't know I wanted and probably shouldn't buy.
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Date: 2014-11-07 02:01 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-07 03:17 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-07 03:19 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-06 11:13 pm (UTC)I actually used to stitch one X at a time, rather than //// then \\\\, until someone told me I was doing it wrong. (It's curious that my mother didn't correct me, but now that I think of it, cross-stitch is one of the few fabric arts she didn't do or did very seldom.)
I would love to see a 201 discussion. Especially on using beads. I have seen gorgeous-looking kits but am not sure I am up to something as fiddly as beads. (I used to do a little bead-weaving and then regular old beading on tiger-tail, but my coordination is even worse now than it used to be.)
(Also, am longing to do bookmarks, but it's going to be hard to eke out time for even that until December, the way this month has been going. But, bookmarks! :D )
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Date: 2014-11-06 11:26 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-08 12:43 am (UTC)The short-thread-path way to do one X at a time results in the top thread on each X pointing in a different direction -
12
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such that the thread goes 1-4, then 3-2, then on the next stitch 3-2, then 1-4.
I don't generally call any approach to crafting "wrong" as long as you're happy with the results you're getting, but I think this surface looks objectively "worse" than one where the top thread is always going 3-2, and to get that you have to set for the second stitch by going from 2 on your first stitch (which is the same hole as 1 on your second stitch) to 4 on your second stitch - a diagonal under the fabric, which uses more thread.
(this may be well beyond the 201 level, honestly, but...really, this is how I think when I cross-stitch, and except for thread-ends my backs tend to be obsessively neat little squares.)
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Date: 2014-11-08 02:31 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-08 05:15 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-06 11:46 pm (UTC)Like thistleingrey says, that's not wrong, it's just less efficient; for some things, you have to make a single X at a time--I'm currently using variegated thread, and you have to for that.
Beading: only done once, on those Christmas ornaments. Here's what it was like:
Very fine sharp needle, lots of little beads. I put the beads in a little flat dish with short straight sides--it was meant for bread oils+seasonings, I believe. Thread the very fine sharp needle with the thread specified by the pattern, come up through the fabric, then stab the needle through the bead and come down in a regular half cross stitch. Sometimes you would then make the other half of the cross stitch through the bead--I think the little silver ones in this big picture may have been full cross-stitches, to keep them straight and not diagonal.
I'm afraid it was moderately fiddly, and I dropped more beads than I care to admit.
Bookmarks! Do you have ones in mind?
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Date: 2014-11-07 01:55 am (UTC)Also, if anyone has recs for cross stitch patterns that are less floral all the time, I'd be all for that. Knots and abstract patterns I can deal with, but I'm having an allergic reaction to all the flowers. (No one's fault, but my mom sends me like 10 photos a day from her iPad of flowers. I'm getting my fair share!)
(Okay, I admit looking for a gun cross-stitch, but most of the ones I found were not appealing to me.)
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Date: 2014-11-07 02:01 am (UTC)no subject
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Date: 2014-11-08 01:59 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-07 02:09 am (UTC)How about . . . this bookmark?
*ducks, runs*
Unfortunately my favorite designers are either (a) fiddly (lots of fractional stitches, which are a pain and require stitching over-two, and you probably don't want that) or (b) actually blackwork and not cross-stitch.
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Date: 2014-11-08 02:00 am (UTC)Huh, if I did blackwork, I actually do have Aida and thread and needles and stuff at home, so it wouldn't require additional expenditures...thanks for the linkage!
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Date: 2014-11-08 02:34 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-08 02:42 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-08 02:44 am (UTC)Lemme resend to your gmail, then.
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Date: 2014-11-08 02:47 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-07 03:21 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-07 03:56 am (UTC)Heh. I did that US SW still life.
As a note to Yoon, because I'm sure it just slipped your mind--that's a designer that tends, like many others sadly, toward random Orientalism.
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Date: 2014-11-07 04:47 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-07 04:21 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2015-08-25 09:39 pm (UTC)Other 101 stuff
Date: 2014-11-07 01:44 am (UTC)Some people prefer to work with the fabric held loosely in the non-working hand. Some people prefer hoops. Try both, and see which works for you. Cheap wooden hoops will make you cry; get the cheap plastic ones instead.
You *will* have to unpick work, and that's just part of the gig, just as unravelling is for knitting and crochet.
If you're working from a chart, photocopy it. Every time you finish a row, draw a line through it on the photocopy. Makes navigation way, way easier. (If you prefer to highlight a row, that's fine, too.)
Start from the center. This will help keep you from wandering off the edge of your fabric. The pattern will usually have the center marked. Find the center of your fabric by folding it in quarters.
Blunt scissors will also make you cry. Fiskars are often cheap and sharp.
Oh! Everybody will tell you to do this, but you'll skip it because it's boring. Don't skip it. When you cut the floss, separate *each individual thread* from the other. Then lay the threads back on top of each other: two threads, three, four, whatever. Separating the threads in the floss completely, then reassembling them really cuts down on the tangling.
Re: Other 101 stuff
Date: 2014-11-07 01:48 am (UTC)I highlight to-be-stitched in one color and then finished over in a different color.
Re: Other 101 stuff
Date: 2014-11-07 01:51 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-07 03:51 am (UTC)the inclusion of metallic thread in a pattern ups the difficulty exponentially. Metallics are terrible to work with and require experience and confidence. I usually put them in after the rest of the pattern is already finished.
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Date: 2014-11-07 03:56 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-07 04:47 am (UTC)You can tell an experienced stitcher from an inexperienced by the back of their project, not the front- the more practiced you get, the neater and cleaner the back will be.
Also, regarding tangling, some people see it as cheating but you can get nice little resin-applicators for very cheap to run the thread through, and then it won't tangle and breaks less. And if you want to take a project on a plane, get one of those necklace cutters, a pendant with the sharp parts on the inside edge, also very cheap and not a weapon.
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Date: 2014-11-07 04:24 pm (UTC)(This was kind of a pain when I did the polar bears, because then it was white-on-white which I hate, which is why I gridded those even though they were little.)
You mean things like Thread Heaven for tangling? Yeah, it's great, and I'm told it's critical for metallics, though why would anyone say it was cheating . . . ?
I've taken small scissors on planes, though I do also have the thread cutters, somewhere, and should probably find them again if I'm going to be stitching around the kids more . . .
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Date: 2014-11-08 12:49 am (UTC)...so if I work white or very pale colors first, they are often tan/grey by the time I'm finished. And since the reds often aren't set very well, there's a limit to how enthusiastically you can wash the finished product to get the whites back to white without them ending up pink instead...
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Date: 2014-11-08 02:35 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-08 12:54 am (UTC)(Airport security has been known to have issues with the round thread cutter pendants, because they're basically a round razor in a protective case...that can be taken apart.)
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Date: 2014-11-08 02:36 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-08 03:04 am (UTC)And my pendant can't, actually, be taken apart any way I can see, and I've taken it on planes (also works for yarn!) but I suppose that would depend on the airport.
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Date: 2014-11-08 03:19 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-08 03:21 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-08 03:35 pm (UTC)(Nail clippers in the very early post-9/11 era could be an issue if they had the nail file that pivots out. I think the theory was the file could be sharpened into a blade? I wish I was kidding.)
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Date: 2014-11-07 04:26 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-07 07:09 am (UTC)Years ago I took myself for an eye exam. When asked why I was there that day I explained my near vision seemed to be going downhill. Doctor nodded, asked my age (32), asked what age my mother and grandmothers went into glasses (late 40s all around). Doctor asked what count fabric I was stitching.
I had not mentioned cross stitch and pointed that out. Doctor gave me a grin and said that the upsurge in counted cross stitch was bring in women for vision correction 10-15 years before their family history might suggest. He thought that close, fine hand work was making women more aware of changes in their vision.
I said "Huh. 28 count, mostly." Doctor nodded and looked pleased with himself.
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Date: 2014-11-07 04:26 pm (UTC)Fray-check still exists, though I've never used it. I used to just put masking tape on the edges, but with the current project I tried folding over the edges and whip-stitching them, which seems to work okay. (I'm not really worried that the masking tape is going to corrode the project somehow over the decades, but I did feel vaguely that I ought not iron it, and that made getting the creases out of the last project more difficult than it had to be.)
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Date: 2014-11-08 03:20 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2014-11-07 04:12 pm (UTC)Also, my public library has a service called Zinio by which I have access to a delightful ?British? cross-stitching magazine called Cross-Stitcher, and they have a whole bunch of patterns every month.
I made a cross-stitch bib for my godmother's son when I was eight years old and have been cross-stitching ever since. It is wonderfully soothing. Trichotillomania runs in my family, and I like to think that cross-stitching is scratching that itch for me. :p
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Date: 2014-11-07 04:31 pm (UTC)Yay craft as therapy!
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Date: 2014-11-07 05:06 pm (UTC)Unfortunately, the current issue preview may be (I'm not sure) problematic. Edit: I say "may" because I don't know how attempts to faithfully reproduce Japanese art fit in.
http://www.jilloxtonxstitch.com/sample1.htm
http://www.jilloxtonxstitch.com/sample90.htm
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Date: 2014-11-07 09:51 pm (UTC)Thanks--and reproducing art isn't what I was thinking of, it was geishas and whatnot.