kate_nepveu: quasi-botantical design stitched in green thread on cream fabric (stitching)
[personal profile] kate_nepveu

Revised from a comment I posted a while ago (in the last thread on the first page of comments here), prompted by tomorrow's Jonathan Strange & Mr Norrell post (no, really! Cross-stitching, slash, and a man wearing a ship on his head, all coming to a Tor.com near you.). Someone asked if I'd taught myself to cross-stitch, and I said I had when I was a kid: "Pretty much your threshold for 'looks good!' is 'all stitches go in the same direction' and 'no big lumpy knots on the back,' so it's pretty simple. => There are bunches of tips for making it look _great_ to close inspection, but start with the basics and see if you like it."

Here are the basics that I came up with on the fly, slightly cleaned up.

You can either find a pattern you like and get the cloth and thread you need for it, or you can buy it all together in a kit. (These days kits are harder to find in general craft stores.) There are also two kinds of kits, the kind with blank fabric and a chart ("counted cross stitch") and the kind with the picture printed on the fabric that you stitch over ("stamped cross stitch").

If you're assembling stuff to make a pattern you've found, I'd recommend starting with Aida fabric, because it's simpler. You want a tapestry needle, because it's blunt; if you're using the most common Aida size, which is 14, try size 24 or 26. And you want embroidery floss, the kind that comes with six plies or strands (for stitching on 14 Aida, you'll want two of those strands); DMC is the biggest name here, and Anchor is also a big name in the UK.

You'll probably also find it easiest, to start, to have a hoop or frame to hold the fabric. A kit may come with a hoop, and hoops are generally the easiest to find in general craft stores. (There are lots more options, but: basics.)

The actual stitching is super simple. Aida fabric is all nice neat little squares with holes at each corner. Push your needle up through a hole from the back, then bring it down through the hole that's diagonal from the one you started with, making the bottom part of the X. If you think of your square's corners numbered like below, you could, for instance, come up at 3 and come down at 2:

12
34

If you're doing a row of stitches, it's easier and faster to do all the bottom parts first. So bring your needle up at 4--it's part of the same block--and then make another diagonal stitch, until you're done that row in your pattern:

/ / / / /

ETA: when you're starting off, leave an inch or two of thread on the back side of your fabric, when you pull it through from 3. Then, when you go down at 2 and up and 4, you'll make a straight line down on the back: before you pull it taut, tuck the inch or two of thread through it, so it's trapped underneath when you pull the stitch taut. You can then do the same thing for the rest of the row, and you've safely secured the start of your thread without a lumpy knot. When you get to the end of your thread, use your needle to run it through a row of stitches on the back for the same effect. Here are some pictures I found on a super-quick search.

At the end of the row, come up again at 4 but this time cross the stitch by making a diagonal in the opposite direction (go down at 1), then repeat:

\ \ \ \ \

Et voila! You now have, err, five neat little X's of thread. (You can stitch in whatever direction you want, as long as it's always the same; I just used that example because it's how I do it and made it less likely I'd mis-state something accidentally.)

Here are some things that affect a project's complexity and difficulty, which you may want to consider when picking something to try--you know your own tolerance for diving in the deep end!

  • size
  • number of colors
  • whether those colors are mostly in their own areas (easier) or whether they are all mixed up (harder)
  • besides cross-stitch and backstitch (used to outline: it's the brown in the polar bears), does it look like it uses any other stitches? beads?
  • ETA: metallic threads (high difficulty level)

There are lots of tutorials and things online, but they seemed to have pretty wildly varying levels of information, so I figured I'd make my own attempt at what I thought the real basics were.

Questions? Disagreements? Demand for a 201+ discussion? (I was planning to save that until my next finish, or at least until I need advice on it, honestly, but we can set up a dedicated comment thread here if you all want.)

Date: 2014-11-06 11:12 pm (UTC)
ceb: (Default)
From: [personal profile] ceb
A small amount of regionalisation: at least in the UK, Anchor is also a big, reliable floss manufacturer (DMC and Anchor are the big two). Also 'kitty-corner' means nothing to me as a British English speaker (I would say 'diagonally across from').

When you're talking about own areas vs mixed up, I would emphasise that patterns with just a cross or two on their own here and there are really very awkward, much more than you might expect if you've never tried cross-stitch before.

Maybe add something about how to start and stop stitching? I think that's the only thing that strikes me as missing from this, it's a really nice intro otherwise :-)

Date: 2014-11-07 01:33 am (UTC)
mme_hardy: White rose (Default)
From: [personal profile] mme_hardy
Away knots are God.

Date: 2014-11-07 01:38 am (UTC)
mme_hardy: White rose (Default)
From: [personal profile] mme_hardy
I usually just hold the thread in the left hand, flat against the row I'm cross-stitching over, but I think that's a 301 technique, after your hands each know their proper jobs.

I think the trick of using a needle threader to slide the free end under the stitching should be better known. It's so easy to take that one last stitch and find out you haven't left enough thread to slide the threaded needle through the back. (You can also buy tools to do this, but a needle threader works fine.)

http://www.stardetailors.com/ is one gadget vendor.

Date: 2014-11-07 01:50 am (UTC)
mme_hardy: White rose (Default)
From: [personal profile] mme_hardy
I was thinking of doing a sub-post of stuff I can't live without.

Thread Heaven. All hail Thread Heaven. http://www.threadheaven.com/

Q-Snaps hoops. Circular hoops stretch fabric on the bias; Q-snaps preserve the grain of the fabric. They're also comfortable to hold. http://www.qsnap.com/

Sharp scissors. I love my Gingher embroidery scissors, but if I didn't already have a pair, I'd go for Havel's, which have excellent quality. http://www.havelssewing.com/

Some way to organize the thread; everybody's got their favorite. I tend to just grab a piece of cardboard, write thread numbers, and make slits in the cardboard to hold each bunch of thread of the same color.

I like this sort of needle threader: http://www.123stitch.com/item/Dritz-Tapestry-Needle-Threaders/123-10500 Much, much less fiddly than the wire ones, and less likely to cause twisting.

I keep my current project and its associated tools in a quart or gallon-sized Zip-Loc.

Date: 2014-11-07 02:07 am (UTC)
mme_hardy: White rose (Default)
From: [personal profile] mme_hardy
How did you hold the ends of the fabric to the tubes?

Date: 2014-11-07 02:09 am (UTC)
mme_hardy: White rose (Default)
From: [personal profile] mme_hardy
God, you've infected me. I used to be an ardent cross-stitcher, but then my eyes went and I couldn't wear glasses because of the migraines. Now I've found some superlightweight glasses, I should dig out some of my old projects.

Date: 2014-12-04 05:26 am (UTC)
thistleingrey: (Default)
From: [personal profile] thistleingrey
Out of curiosity, do you or would you also use Q-Snaps for larger projects beyond 20" on one side? How bad is it to move them around the way one might move a hoop?

I've discovered that I can address a 4" square with an awake child (who now finds it diverting to help me separate cotton strands when asked and understands about not tangling them unnecessarily), so I'm trying slowly to figure out how I could do my languishing Wentzler kit without my old wooden tabletop frame (no longer usable for me). I'm willing to buy stuff--a design that's 22.5 x 14.5" is worth some care--but have little sense of where to look for recs/suggestions at this point.

Date: 2014-12-04 05:52 am (UTC)
thistleingrey: (Default)
From: [personal profile] thistleingrey
Thanks muchly for the input as well as the link. (I too would put something between fabric and plastic/wood, I think.) Perhaps I'll try it in the hand after this small piece is finished and see how it goes. I am a little afraid of 25ct evenweave.

Date: 2014-12-04 06:06 am (UTC)
thistleingrey: (Default)
From: [personal profile] thistleingrey
The 25ct part. 28ct slides into "makes my eyes go funny" territory. (On one hand, glad it's mostly mild astigmatism--both my closest friends from school have been legally blind from myopia since our teens--but on another, resentful that that astigmatism flickers as my neck joints shift and thus is never quiiiiite corrected by my glasses. Really small in the grand scheme, and yet.)

Date: 2014-11-07 01:54 am (UTC)
mme_hardy: White rose (Default)
From: [personal profile] mme_hardy
I don't get around much, so I consider a couple of mail-order places to be my Local Needlework Shop. Mine are Nordic Needle, which helped introduce Hardanger to America: http://www.nordicneedle.com/ and Needle in a Haystack, in Berkeley. http://www.needlestack.com/ For historic sewing supplies (silver spangles, that sort of thing) I love Hedgehog Handworks. http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/index.php

God. I have strong opinions, don't I?

Date: 2014-11-07 02:01 am (UTC)
mme_hardy: White rose (Default)
From: [personal profile] mme_hardy
Oh, God, yes. And touch! And touch ALL THE FIBER.

Date: 2014-11-07 03:17 am (UTC)
thistleingrey: (Default)
From: [personal profile] thistleingrey
Needle in a Haystack was in Alameda last they sent me something; lacis.com is the one in Berkeley. Both are good resources for needlecrafters, IMO.

Date: 2014-11-07 03:19 am (UTC)
mme_hardy: White rose (Default)
From: [personal profile] mme_hardy
Excellent point.

Date: 2014-11-06 11:13 pm (UTC)
yhlee: Flight Rising Spiral dragon, black-red-gold (Flight Rising Jedao baby Spiral)
From: [personal profile] yhlee
Thank you for this!

I actually used to stitch one X at a time, rather than //// then \\\\, until someone told me I was doing it wrong. (It's curious that my mother didn't correct me, but now that I think of it, cross-stitch is one of the few fabric arts she didn't do or did very seldom.)

I would love to see a 201 discussion. Especially on using beads. I have seen gorgeous-looking kits but am not sure I am up to something as fiddly as beads. (I used to do a little bead-weaving and then regular old beading on tiger-tail, but my coordination is even worse now than it used to be.)

(Also, am longing to do bookmarks, but it's going to be hard to eke out time for even that until December, the way this month has been going. But, bookmarks! :D )

Date: 2014-11-06 11:26 pm (UTC)
thistleingrey: (Default)
From: [personal profile] thistleingrey
It's only "wrong" to do an X at a time because it uses up more thread.

Date: 2014-11-08 12:43 am (UTC)
ailis_fictive: Ailis (Default)
From: [personal profile] ailis_fictive
To be super-pedantic (sorry! I think of cross-stitch thread paths like little logic puzzles that get me a neat finished object at the end)...depends how you're working one-X-at-a-time. There's two ways; either you're leaving more thread behind the work or you get an uneven surface

The short-thread-path way to do one X at a time results in the top thread on each X pointing in a different direction -

12
34

such that the thread goes 1-4, then 3-2, then on the next stitch 3-2, then 1-4.

I don't generally call any approach to crafting "wrong" as long as you're happy with the results you're getting, but I think this surface looks objectively "worse" than one where the top thread is always going 3-2, and to get that you have to set for the second stitch by going from 2 on your first stitch (which is the same hole as 1 on your second stitch) to 4 on your second stitch - a diagonal under the fabric, which uses more thread.

(this may be well beyond the 201 level, honestly, but...really, this is how I think when I cross-stitch, and except for thread-ends my backs tend to be obsessively neat little squares.)

Date: 2014-11-08 05:15 am (UTC)
thistleingrey: (Default)
From: [personal profile] thistleingrey
Agreed--I didn't state, and should have, that I was assuming all Xs going the same way. I do 3-2 4-1, but the starting point or direction doesn't matter, only the overall consistency, unless (as you say) one wants not to have the Xs consistent....

Date: 2014-11-07 01:55 am (UTC)
yhlee: Alto clef and whole note (middle C). (hxx Jedao 1x10^6)
From: [personal profile] yhlee
I spotted these: right now I need pretty colors in my life. I might get faster fulfillment just going to Hobby Lobby and seeing what they have, though.

Also, if anyone has recs for cross stitch patterns that are less floral all the time, I'd be all for that. Knots and abstract patterns I can deal with, but I'm having an allergic reaction to all the flowers. (No one's fault, but my mom sends me like 10 photos a day from her iPad of flowers. I'm getting my fair share!)

(Okay, I admit looking for a gun cross-stitch, but most of the ones I found were not appealing to me.)

Date: 2014-11-07 02:01 am (UTC)
mme_hardy: White rose (Default)
From: [personal profile] mme_hardy
I love Textile Heritage (available from many different stores, not just this one). They have a lot of flower patterns, but they also have castles, Celtic knotwork, Scottish heritage sites, ...

Date: 2014-11-07 03:26 am (UTC)
thistleingrey: (Default)
From: [personal profile] thistleingrey
Ooh, yes--the little squares kept me happy one research trip (a whole month, years ago), and I've made a couple of the coasters. I didn't realize they can be bought in the US!

Date: 2014-11-07 02:04 am (UTC)
mme_hardy: White rose (Default)
From: [personal profile] mme_hardy
No guns, but can I tempt you with a medieval king with sword? (Search "Textile Heritage" on Amazon under Arts and Crafts.)

Date: 2014-11-08 01:59 am (UTC)
yhlee: Alto clef and whole note (middle C). (hxx Jedao 1x10^6)
From: [personal profile] yhlee
Sorry for late response, I am having a couple of Days. That is an excellent temptation; thank you! =)

Date: 2014-11-08 02:00 am (UTC)
yhlee: Alto clef and whole note (middle C). (Default)
From: [personal profile] yhlee
OMG, I would totally do that one ("Vampires suck"). Fortunately or unfortunately, I'm going to be running around like a goose with its head cut off this next week, but I've definitely bookmarked (ha, ha) for possible future stitching!

Huh, if I did blackwork, I actually do have Aida and thread and needles and stuff at home, so it wouldn't require additional expenditures...thanks for the linkage!

Date: 2014-11-08 02:42 am (UTC)
yhlee: Alto clef and whole note (middle C). (fractal (art: unHnu icon: enriana))
From: [personal profile] yhlee
It ate the patterns. :] Also, my laptop for some reason won't talk to my printer, but that's only a minor nuisance because I can send to Joe's computer and have him print for me, heh.

Date: 2014-11-08 02:47 am (UTC)
yhlee: Alto clef and whole note (middle C). (fractal (art: unHnu icon: enriana))
From: [personal profile] yhlee
Received, thank you!

Date: 2014-11-07 03:21 am (UTC)
thistleingrey: (Default)
From: [personal profile] thistleingrey
Are scenes okay, if they're not floral? Dimensions has a Gold Collection series that's usually 5x7"--they may even call it "petite," ugh, but anyway, it includes a lake with a docked boat, a tiger, a stylized Arc de Triomphe, a US Southwestern still life....

Date: 2014-11-07 04:47 am (UTC)
thistleingrey: (Default)
From: [personal profile] thistleingrey
Ah, good to know--my local Michael's and Joann don't stock the random Orientalism, so I didn't realize.

Date: 2015-08-25 09:39 pm (UTC)
phi: (Default)
From: [personal profile] phi
I have stalked Kate's cross stitching tag to find links to patterns, and OMG. I love those stained glass designs, and they look like they might be within spitting distance of my current skill level. Woo.

Other 101 stuff

Date: 2014-11-07 01:44 am (UTC)
mme_hardy: White rose (Default)
From: [personal profile] mme_hardy
Don't pull the thread tight. This is easy to do because your hands tense up, but it makes your life more difficult if you have to (gulp) unpick, and can even deform the fabric. Snug is good, taut is bad.

Some people prefer to work with the fabric held loosely in the non-working hand. Some people prefer hoops. Try both, and see which works for you. Cheap wooden hoops will make you cry; get the cheap plastic ones instead.

You *will* have to unpick work, and that's just part of the gig, just as unravelling is for knitting and crochet.

If you're working from a chart, photocopy it. Every time you finish a row, draw a line through it on the photocopy. Makes navigation way, way easier. (If you prefer to highlight a row, that's fine, too.)

Start from the center. This will help keep you from wandering off the edge of your fabric. The pattern will usually have the center marked. Find the center of your fabric by folding it in quarters.

Blunt scissors will also make you cry. Fiskars are often cheap and sharp.

Oh! Everybody will tell you to do this, but you'll skip it because it's boring. Don't skip it. When you cut the floss, separate *each individual thread* from the other. Then lay the threads back on top of each other: two threads, three, four, whatever. Separating the threads in the floss completely, then reassembling them really cuts down on the tangling.

Edited Date: 2014-11-07 01:45 am (UTC)

Re: Other 101 stuff

Date: 2014-11-07 01:51 am (UTC)
mme_hardy: White rose (Default)
From: [personal profile] mme_hardy
I think "Photocopy the chart" is 101, because it never occurred to me that you were allowed to mark up the chart. Sacrilege!

Date: 2014-11-07 03:51 am (UTC)
rushthatspeaks: (the unforgiving sun)
From: [personal profile] rushthatspeaks
The 101 tip which would have saved me the most time as a tween:

the inclusion of metallic thread in a pattern ups the difficulty exponentially. Metallics are terrible to work with and require experience and confidence. I usually put them in after the rest of the pattern is already finished.

Date: 2014-11-07 04:47 am (UTC)
quinfirefrorefiddle: Van Gogh's painting of a mulberry tree. (MLP: Rarity Crafting)
From: [personal profile] quinfirefrorefiddle
I'm much more of a freehand embroidery kind of person, but a couple things I would say is that I was taught to start a pattern by working the lightest color first, then the next lightest and so on to the darkest. The reason for this is when you're working the darker threads you'll be able to tell if you can see a thread, say, jumping behind the fabric from one spot to another, through the fabric. Black outlines and french knots come last. (Find a vid to watch to learn how to do french knots, half the pictures I've seen are just wrong.)

You can tell an experienced stitcher from an inexperienced by the back of their project, not the front- the more practiced you get, the neater and cleaner the back will be.

Also, regarding tangling, some people see it as cheating but you can get nice little resin-applicators for very cheap to run the thread through, and then it won't tangle and breaks less. And if you want to take a project on a plane, get one of those necklace cutters, a pendant with the sharp parts on the inside edge, also very cheap and not a weapon.

Date: 2014-11-08 12:49 am (UTC)
ailis_fictive: Ailis (Default)
From: [personal profile] ailis_fictive
I actually leave the very lightest colors for last when possible, because I work large projects over long time-spans in a variety of environments, sometimes without being careful about the condition of my hands...

...so if I work white or very pale colors first, they are often tan/grey by the time I'm finished. And since the reds often aren't set very well, there's a limit to how enthusiastically you can wash the finished product to get the whites back to white without them ending up pink instead...

Date: 2014-11-08 12:54 am (UTC)
ailis_fictive: Ailis (Default)
From: [personal profile] ailis_fictive
Oh, and on the thread-cutting front, may I sing the praise of nail clippers? They go nicely through both thread and airport security, and won't poke holes in your bag (or project) if tossed in without a case/cover, like pointy embroidery scissors will.

(Airport security has been known to have issues with the round thread cutter pendants, because they're basically a round razor in a protective case...that can be taken apart.)

Date: 2014-11-08 03:04 am (UTC)
quinfirefrorefiddle: Van Gogh's painting of a mulberry tree. (MLP: Rarity Crafting)
From: [personal profile] quinfirefrorefiddle
Possibly only my grandma thought it was cheating.

And my pendant can't, actually, be taken apart any way I can see, and I've taken it on planes (also works for yarn!) but I suppose that would depend on the airport.

Date: 2014-11-08 03:19 am (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
It's like anything else: it depends on precisely how nasty a mood the TSA person you deal with is. My rule of thumb is, never take anything in your carry-on that you aren't willing to lose for good. People have had totally weird stuff confiscated, like the interchangeable tips to circular needles. I've definitely heard of people losing their circular thread cutters. Nail clippers I've never had a problem with.

Date: 2014-11-08 03:21 am (UTC)
mme_hardy: White rose (Default)
From: [personal profile] mme_hardy
Oops, that was me.

Date: 2014-11-08 03:35 pm (UTC)
ailis_fictive: Ailis (Default)
From: [personal profile] ailis_fictive
I've never had a problem either, actually, but I did a fair amount of flying in the first few years after 9/11 and got *really* paranoid about what I'd carry because the early TSA was so very jumpy and inconsistent. At this point it's mostly habit - though in fairness, I'm pretty sure the round cutters actually are a large enough blade to be banned.

(Nail clippers in the very early post-9/11 era could be an issue if they had the nail file that pivots out. I think the theory was the file could be sharpened into a blade? I wish I was kidding.)

Date: 2014-11-07 04:26 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] readingtheend.pip.verisignlabs.com
Ooo, that is an excellent tip. I'm going to try it with my current pattern.

Date: 2014-11-07 07:09 am (UTC)
saoba: photo of large breakers in oregon surf (Default)
From: [personal profile] saoba
Fray-check, or whatever the kids are using these days to keep the fabric edges from going to bits, would go on my materials list. When photocopying charts, don't hesitate to blow them up, some companies make the charts rawther small. Two paper clips and a sheet of blank paper can be laid over a chart to keep your place, just move it down line by line as you go.

Years ago I took myself for an eye exam. When asked why I was there that day I explained my near vision seemed to be going downhill. Doctor nodded, asked my age (32), asked what age my mother and grandmothers went into glasses (late 40s all around). Doctor asked what count fabric I was stitching.

I had not mentioned cross stitch and pointed that out. Doctor gave me a grin and said that the upsurge in counted cross stitch was bring in women for vision correction 10-15 years before their family history might suggest. He thought that close, fine hand work was making women more aware of changes in their vision.

I said "Huh. 28 count, mostly." Doctor nodded and looked pleased with himself.


Date: 2014-11-08 03:20 am (UTC)
mme_hardy: White rose (Default)
From: [personal profile] mme_hardy
After I bought a serger, *everything* got serged. Before that, hand whip-stitching (without folding over, just a rough stitch over the raw edge) is actually very fast.

Date: 2014-11-07 04:12 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] readingtheend.pip.verisignlabs.com
Where to get patterns from: Etsy is an excellent source! Last year I acquired a cross-stitch pattern from Etsy for cross-stitch Avengers, which I made into a pillow for my brother-in-law. Maybe $4 for the pattern?

Also, my public library has a service called Zinio by which I have access to a delightful ?British? cross-stitching magazine called Cross-Stitcher, and they have a whole bunch of patterns every month.

I made a cross-stitch bib for my godmother's son when I was eight years old and have been cross-stitching ever since. It is wonderfully soothing. Trichotillomania runs in my family, and I like to think that cross-stitching is scratching that itch for me. :p

Date: 2014-11-07 05:06 pm (UTC)
mme_hardy: White rose (Default)
From: [personal profile] mme_hardy
If you want exquisite patterns, see the Australian magazine Cross-Stitch and Beading. Bonus: many patterns of Australian fauna and flora.

Unfortunately, the current issue preview may be (I'm not sure) problematic. Edit: I say "may" because I don't know how attempts to faithfully reproduce Japanese art fit in.

http://www.jilloxtonxstitch.com/sample1.htm

http://www.jilloxtonxstitch.com/sample90.htm
Edited Date: 2014-11-07 05:07 pm (UTC)

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